From Ancestral Garments to the Podium: the Transformation of National Costume in Contemporary Fashion

Authors

  • Muminova Saida Mardonqul qizi Manager of the Registrar's Office, Kamoliddin Behzod National Institute of Painting and Design

Keywords:

National Costume, Adras, Atlas, Suzani, Sustainable Fashion, Cultural Identity, Fashion Globalization

Abstract

This article examines the transformation of Uzbek national costume its fabrics, silhouettes and ornamental vocabulary into contemporary fashion design, situating the Central Asian case within the broader international discourse on ethnic dress, national identity and sustainable fashion. Uzbekistan possesses one of the richest surviving hand-textile traditions in Eurasia, embodied in silk ikat fabrics such as atlas, adras, bekasam and baxmal, and in the symbolically dense embroidery of suzani. Over the past two decades these elements have migrated from ceremonial wardrobes and ethnographic collections onto international runways and into the collections of both Uzbek and foreign designers. The findings indicate three parallel processes: the technical and economic revival of endangered hand-weaving crafts through fashion-industry demand; the semantic transformation of protective and fertility-related ornament into decorative, largely secularised print; and the uneven distribution of symbolic and economic capital between Western luxury houses and Central Asian artisans.

References

Advantour, “Traditional Uzbek clothing: History, dress, fabrics and regional styles.” [Online]. Available: https://www.advantour.com/uzbekistan/traditions/traditional-clothes.htm. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Advantour, “Uzbek suzani embroidery: Traditions, styles, and symbolism.” [Online]. Available: https://www.advantour.com/uzbekistan/culture/handicrafts/embroidery.htm. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Alesouk, “What symbols are hidden in suzani?,” 2023. [Online]. Available: https://alesouk.com/what-symbols-are-hidden-in-suzani/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Alesouk, “Ikat as a modern trend,” 2023. [Online]. Available: https://alesouk.com/ikat-as-a-modern-trend/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

S. Baizerman, J. B. Eicher, and C. Cerny, “Eurocentrism in the study of ethnic dress,” Dress, vol. 20, no. 1, pp. 19–32, 1993.

A. Barannikova, “Resist-dyed textiles as an element of national identity formation in Central Asia,” Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, vol. 11, no. 2, pp. 86–90, 2025. [Online]. Available: https://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/JTEFT-11-00408.pdf

Cabar.asia, “How the ancient traditions of adras and ikat production are carried on in modern Uzbekistan,” Nov. 30, 2022. [Online]. Available: https://cabar.asia/en/how-the-ancient-traditions-of-adras-and-ikat-production-are-carried-on-in-modern-uzbekistan. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Central Asia Guide, “Uzbek clothing is very colorful and traditional.” [Online]. Available: https://central-asia.guide/uzbekistan/uzbek-culture/uzbek-clothing/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

“Uzbek ikats as a case study for ethnic textiles surviving and thriving in a changing world,” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. [Online]. Available: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1911&context=tsaconf. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

J. B. Eicher and S. L. Evenson, The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture, and Society, 4th ed. New York, NY, USA: Fairchild Books, 2015.

J. B. Eicher and B. Sumberg, “World fashion, ethnic, and national dress,” in Dress and Ethnicity: Change Across Space and Time, J. B. Eicher, Ed. Oxford, U.K.: Berg, 1995, pp. 295–306.

Elle Uzbekistan, “UFW 2024: A celebration of cultural heritage,” Nov. 18, 2024. [Online]. Available: https://elleuzbekistan.com/en/ufw-2024/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Elle Uzbekistan, “The hidden language of Uzbek patterns: The magic of ancient motifs and their influence on the modern world,” Nov. 27, 2024. [Online]. Available: https://elleuzbekistan.com/en/the-hidden-language-of-uzbek-patterns-the-magic-of-ancient-motifs-and-their-influence-on-the-modern-world/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

Fabuk Magazine, “Uzbekistan Fashion Week 2023,” Apr. 19, 2023. [Online]. Available: https://fabukmagazine.com/uzbekistan-fashion-week-2023/. [Accessed: Jul. 2, 2026].

D. Han, “Modern fashion design trend and integration innovation from a cross-cultural perspective,” Journal of Education, Humanities and Social Sciences MAMEE, vol. 51, pp. 268–272, 2025.

Downloads

Published

2026-07-05

How to Cite

Mardonqul qizi, M. S. (2026). From Ancestral Garments to the Podium: the Transformation of National Costume in Contemporary Fashion. CENTRAL ASIAN JOURNAL OF ARTS AND DESIGN, 7(3), 16–22. Retrieved from https://cajad.casjournal.org/index.php/CAJAD/article/view/575

Issue

Section

Articles